09th May 2022
2019 was an outstanding year for Bordeaux red wines. Still, the necessary weather conditions for the forging of the region’s high-quality reds are counterproductive to great Sauternes and Barsac production.
In the Nick of Time
Much of the 2019 growing season was warm to hot and dry. By the end of September, the prospects for significant noble rot—the beneficial face of Botrytis necessary for producing truly great sweet whites—were looking quite bleak. It had thus far been too warm and dry when cooler, humid/wet conditions are required to kickstart the measured infection of the fungus.
Without Botrytis, very good, sweet wines can be made, but Sauternes of real greatness possesses concentration and complexity that can only come with widespread, fully manifested noble rot. By early October, the area’s Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes were super-ripe but not Botrytized, heralding a pure, rich late-harvest fruit signature like 2018.
At last, light rains came in early October, triggering the onset of Botrytis. This damp period was followed by very warm days, which caused the fungus to spread like wildfire. From then, it was all happy days for the Sauternais until downpours were forecast for 14th October, which would turn the Botrytis party into a rotten mess.
- Bill Blatch"The stress was almost unbearable"
“The stress was almost unbearable as the forecast was for heavy rain on Monday evening, 14th October,” said Sauternes expert Bill Blatch. “The pickers were working around the clock but were slowed down by the very laborious process of selecting only the good rot and discarding the bad. By Monday evening, when the rain arrived, all Barsac and lower Sauternes had finished, but the higher ground Sauternes needed to finalize their picking for the rainy week that followed. Only a few lots picked right away made it into the Grand Vin blends. The net result is an infinitesimal volume of very high quality.”
There is richness without heaviness, delivering fantastic acid backbones and wonderful purity.
Indeed, as Blatch suggests, selection played a significant role in the most successful wines, as did diligent winemaking.
These wines represent excellent value for money and are of world class quality. They are well worth your attention!
Our thanks to Bill Blatch for organizing a tasting of the 2019 Sauternes in Bordeaux and his valuable comments on the growing season.
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Article & Reviews by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
Photos by Johan Berglund
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