In the Médoc, if you were passed over by the great anointing sword of the 1855 Classification, it can be challenging to get noticed, no matter how good you are in terms of quality or value.

Value Play

The main reason behind the original Cru Bourgeois classification in 1932 was for the Bordeaux Chambers of Commerce and Agriculture to highlight the standouts among the vast herd of also-rans on the Left Bank and give them a marketing edge. At that time, there wasn’t much rigor behind the selection process. Nonetheless, 444 estates were able to use the status on the labels. And so, for the next 75+ years, you could find the words “Cru Bourgeois” printed on labels. It was something to have these words on the labels, sure, but the meaning behind the term grew ever vague and dusty, especially in the eyes of the consumer.

Into the Twenty-first Century, the meaning of Cru Bourgeois and the process behind the selection has been transformed considerably, but not without a few bumps along the way. Most notably, in 2003, a significant overhaul of the classification was attempted, only to be revoked in 2007, the French court citing conflict of interest as a factor. This setback left the defunct status in limbo for a few years until the Alliance des Cru Bourgeois changed the basis of the classification and ranking to include better-defined selection criteria and independent assessment.

The most significant difference with this latest iteration of the Cru Bourgeois classification is the vetting of labels by blind tasting. At the most basic level, candidates had to submit five vintages for scoring by a blind tasting by two committees of five independent tasters. The score obtained by the château determined its eligibility to qualify for a place on the pyramid of basic level and the recently instated two upper levels.

As was put forward with the initial 2003 reclassification attempt, there are now three levels to the Cru Bourgeois classification, with “Supérieur” and “Exceptionnel” sitting above the standard level, respectively. What’s the difference between the upper levels and a wine that is simply of Cru Bourgeois standard? Apart from the score on the taste test, verification of actions implemented to optimize the quality and character of the wine is necessary. Furthermore, these wineries must demonstrate an additional commitment to sustainability and promoting the wine (e.g., approved marketing strategy, tasting room, distribution channels, etc.). In my view (and based on my tastings), having a Supérieur or Exceptionnel level doesn’t necessarily mean a specific vintage of an upper-level wine is qualitatively better than the same vintage of another wine at the basic level. Still, it does tend to have more resources.

Since its inception in 2010, this new classification process has been running annually. But from the 2020 classification, the châteaux are now classified for a period of five years. Thus, those who obtained Cru Bourgeois status at least five times during the nine vintages from 2008 to 2016 were granted the status without further sensory analysis. This 2020 classification classifies properties for the 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, and 2022 vintages. Two hundred forty-nine châteaux achieved the 2020 classification: 179 at the basic Cru Bourgeois level, 56 at the Supérieur level, and 14 were designated Exceptionnel. This roughly accounts for 31% of the Médoc’s production. Going forward, the list will be revised every five years, meaning the next classification will be announced in 2025.

This was an impressively consistent showing.

In June this year, I tasted over a hundred Cru Bourgeois wines from the 2019 vintage. This was an impressively consistent showing, not just because this is such a great vintage, but because the Cru Bourgeois designation is starting to mean something. And as we are beginning to see an easing of the supply chain issues, many of these 2019 wines are now or will soon be hitting international markets. Even better, most of these wines are approachable and downright delicious to drink right now. So, what are you waiting for? Happy Cru Bourgeois hunting!