Ch-Ch-Changes

Les Carmes Haut_Brion 2011-2018

In an “old” world region like Bordeaux, it is easy to be dismissive of change. Today the rate of change has accelerated. Cellars are demolished and rebuilt, the winemaker merry-go-round, vineyards sold and tacked onto other châteaux names, and here comes another foreign investor. This constant flux is par for the course in Bordeaux and seldom impacts more than those directly involved. What is interesting, however, is when the wine changes. Dramatic style and quality shake-ups impact us all.

The Wizard of Napa

Rudd Estate New Releases

I found Rudd Estate’s 2019 line-up bright, energetic, and nuanced. Simply delicious and with considerable aging potential, the Leslie’s Blend from the Mt. Veeder vineyard is a stand-out natural beauty. What I particularly love about this wine is its singularity, possessing a lot of muscle while revealing the earthier, more restrained side of Napa.

The Pauillac Paradox

Château Pontet-Canet 2010-2020

The signatures that shine through each of these years are brightness, energy, and the purity of fruit, creating a singular expression of Pauillac that hovers above the crowd. And yet there remains a firmly structured classicism about the 2019 vintage, instilling a sense of regionality and a gravitas. A Pauillac paradox, today’s Pontet-Canet is both timeless and ahead of its time.

The 10th Plague

Bordeaux 2021 in barrel

Just over one year after that ominous first frost plague descended upon the Bordeaux 2021s, the 10th Plague arrived, far more terrifying and damning than all those that came before. The scores… the scores…

Now or Never

Sauternes 2021 En Primeur

No table wine can touch these unctuous beauties in terms of value for money.

Changes Afoot

Château Brane-Cantenac 2000-2018

Positive changes are happening at Château Brane-Cantenac. There’s no jarring difference in style here, such as a trend correction veering abruptly towards a new ripeness/harvest philosophy or a flashy winemaking makeover. The stylistic changes in recent vintages are cleverly subtle.

Style Council

Harlan Estate and Bond New Releases

It was business as usual at Harlan Estate, tasting with the whole gang: Bill Harlan, Don Weaver, Bob Levy, Will Harlan, and winemaking director Cory Empting. About a year ago, the reins were handed over to Bill’s son, Will Harlan, who is now managing director over all the Harlan estates, but there are no dramatic changes in style here, which is not to say there are no changes.

The Missing Pieces

Bordeaux 2019 in bottle

2019 is not just another great vintage. Because the nature of this vintage coincides with this modern era of ultra-sensitive, precision winemaking, this is perhaps the most terroir expressive vintage Bordeaux has ever crafted.

Jess Jackson’s Truth

Vérité releases

Jess Jackson had a linchpin thought which connected high-quality wine with Northern California cultural heritage. This thought could not be measured, analyzed, scored, or even described. But it was nonetheless a truth.

The Bridge

La Conseillante 2009-2019

The velvety tannin texture which is the signature of this vineyard is more evident than ever and the wines are at a new level of consistency since the fifth generation of the Nicolas family stepped into managing the estate in 2003. It’s an iron fist in a crushed violets glove.

Next-Gen Sonoma, The Senses Story

New releases from Senses

When I first tasted Senses five years ago it stopped me in my tracks. This is a rising star Sonoma Coast label.

Changing of the Guard

Peter Michael Winery 2019 & 2020 releases

I recently had the opportunity to taste the 2019 and 2020 Peter Michael Winery new releases with winemaker Robert Fiore, who continues to work with consultant Luc Morlet. 2019 is undoubtedly a WOW vintage.

DRINKING

1953 Ch. Angélus

During my visit to Château Angélus to taste the 2021 Primeurs in April this year, I had the opportunity to try once again the 1953

1981 Beau-Séjour Bécot

Don’t you love it when “off” vintages surprise you?

In the Nick of Time

Sauternes 2019 in bottle
2019 was an outstanding year for Bordeaux red wines. Still, the necessary weather conditions for the forging of the region’s high-quality reds are counterproductive to great Sauternes and Barsac production. Much of the 2019 growing season was warm to hot and dry. By the end of September, the prospects for significant noble rot—the beneficial face of Botrytis necessary for producing truly great sweet whites—were looking quite bleak. It had thus far been too warm and dry when cooler, humid/wet conditions are required to kickstart the measured infection of the fungus.

Not To Be Different, But

Chateau Figeac, 1979-2019
Not to be different, but Thierry Manoncourt was different. Unashamedly bucking trends, questioning the status quo, unafraid to speak his peace – different. With an eloquent, gentlemanly demeanor that belied his stubbornness, Manoncourt certainly wasn’t short on opinions nor passion for his vineyard.

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Napa Kaizen

Dominus latest releases
Coming up to the spring releases of 2019 Napanook and Dominus, Lisa Perrotti-Brown took the opportunity in March to taste with the estate’s director of viticulture and winemaking, Tod Mostero. They also discussed amongst other things why the consistency of quality at Dominus, particularly over the last two decades, is so impressive it’s almost annoying.

Have Your Cake and Eat It Too

Latour’s releases
In March 2022, three new wines from the Châtea Latour stable will be available to purchase for the very first time. Latour’s strongest line-up of annual releases since they opted out of the En Primeur system ten years ago.

Where The Wild Things Are

Promontory’s 2016 release

At the very pinnacle of wine culture, what we drink should be equal parts deliciousness and captivation. Case in point; In the 80s, Bill Harlan went hiking and stumbled across an abandoned prohibition-era bootlegger’s cabin and a small vineyard amidst the remote wilderness…

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Whether you’re a professional buyer, a serious collector or a private connoisseur, TWI brings you reliable reviews of the wines you love, just when you need them. Our review section is led by Lisa, one of the industry’s top critics. The photos are taken by Johan, one of the industry’s best known visual storytellers.

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That Mona Lisa Smile

Château d’Yquem’s new release
2019 was one of those nail-biting vintages for Yquem. Come mid to late September, no botrytis. Pickers’ thumbs twiddled over their secateurs, anxiously awaiting an appearance from their mercurial fungal friend. But the growing season had thus far been too dry to spark its presence. Lisa Perrotti-Brown reviews Yquem’s new release.

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