Tuscan Additions

New notes

Susan Hulme MW. is back with a new installment from Tuscany.

The Flying Dutchman

Château Branas Grand Poujeaux 2009-2020

From 2018 onwards Château Branas Grand Poujeaux delivers richness with a solid backbone of beautifully ripe, remarkably soft tannins. Value hunters take notice—this soaring Château is poised to set a whole new benchmark for Moulis.

Amazing Grace

Wayfarer’s New Releases

Wayfarer produces a style that dials up the perfume and intensity volume without added weight or alcohol. These are wines of amazing grace without sacrificing structure and layers – all signatures putting Fort Ross-Seaview on the map for outstanding Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

In With The New

Opus One 2001-2019

It’s hard to believe that the wine world’s most famous joint venture—Bordeaux’s Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Napa’s Robert Mondavi—has been producing its iconic label for more than four decades. Opus One remains one of Napa’s largest production, high-quality brands (around 25,000 cases per annum) and must be the region’s most globally recognized and distributed fine wine.

Les Trois Enfants

Clos l’Église, Barde-Haut, and Poesia

"I am, above all, a man of the land."

- Patrice Lévêque

Passion Vision

The Story of Isole e Olena

"I knew where I wanted to go and passion and vision are the powers that move the world."

- Paolo De Marchi

Bianco of His Eye

Ornellaia Bianco 2013-2019

"Italy is finally discovering that it is not only a red wine country."

-Axel Heinz

The Nest of Gold

Nid Tissé New Releases

Quantities may currently be tiny, but this little nest of golden Chardonnay beauties is well worth the hunt!

Frozen

Bordeaux 2017 Retrospective

An uncommon style that some will not be able to get enough of, 2017 is a vintage where extraordinary wines possessing great depth and super ripe, super-fine tannins can be found, achieving ripeness at modest alcohol levels. This is a face of Bordeaux that we have not seen in many years.

Solar Power

Solaia 1998-2018

"Solaia is a pure distillation of everything we are and everything we do."

-Marchese Piero Antinori

Golden Year

2007 Sauternes Retrospective

Fifteen years on is an opportune time to check in on a great Sauternes vintage. It’s just when many of the wines are starting to hit their sweet spot, still encapsulating that bright, youthful flush of fruitiness while displaying a whole myriad of emerging tertiary characters.

The Anti-Hedonist

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Sémillon 1998-2019

"If you’ve got a young winemaker who wants to make more Sémillon you take him out behind the barn and shoot him."

-Bruce Tyrrell

We Are Gaja

Story of Gaja and New Releases

"I believe that old age starts when the regrets are more than the dreams."

-Angelo Gaja

Yes, It’s That Good

Bordeaux 2016 Retrospective

Out of the recent Bordeaux vintage retrospectives tasted by Lisa Perrotti-Brown—2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018—2016 was the year she was most interested in revisiting. From the time these wines were in barrel, she was convinced that this would be praised as a legendary vintage for many years to come. But after the wines had a few years in bottle, when flaws, shortcomings, and aging arcs become more apparent, would she still think the vintage was all that?

The Emperor of Smell

Spotlight on Vignobles Silvio Denz

"The message is in the bottle. The quality of the wine is paramount."

-Silvio Denz

The Solar Vintage, Eclipsed

2015 Bordeaux Retrospective

After a challenging string of vintages from 2011 through 2014, 2015 kickstarted one of Bordeaux’s longest runs of great years ever. It was a warm/hot, dry vintage, plagued only by isolated rains at harvest in the northernmost area of the Médoc. With a good five years+ in bottle under their belts, how is the vintage looking now?

Along Comes Adam Lee

Clarice Wine Company & Beau Marchais

News that another Pinot Noir-obsessed winemaker wants to craft the next DRC has become about as interesting as watching the painfully slow pour from a Coravin. If I never again have to hear about searches for limestone terroir, suitcase clones from you-know-where, and the quixotic pursuit of flavor ripeness at low alcohol in a hot climate, it’ll be too soon. But just when I thought the whole Burgundian saga was becoming way too predictable, along comes Adam Lee.

The Golden Shell

Fontodi's Flaccianello

Giovanni Manetti, co-owner of the Fontodi estate in Chianti Classico’s Panzano, has managed the family’s iconic property since 1986. President of the Chianti Classico Consorzio, Manetti also oversees significant changes, increasing the development of the Gran Selezione category and proposing 11 new Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, allowing producers to add the name of these sub-zones to their Gran Selezione labels. Ever the innovator, Manetti is not one to stand still.

The Great Reset Button in the Sky

Tuscany New Releases

Erratic weather conditions have been the calling card of climate change in recent vintages in Tuscany, alternating between cool and wet in 2014, very hot in 2015, then an oasis of perfect conditions in 2016, then hot and dry in 2017, then cool, wet and hot in 2018. Then, in 2019, God pressed the reset button and provided a return to some normality.

Stop Whispering

Pichon Lalande 1975-2020 

General Manager and Winemaker at Pichon Lalande since 2012, Nicolas Glumineau is a Renaissance man with a holistic vision for taking this incredible estate to new levels. He has also just crafted the estate’s first white wine. A trained opera singer, what does Glumineau listen to when he is crafting Pichon Comtesse? Expect the unexpected in this spotlight feature.

A Monopole among the Redwoods

The Cru de Clos Story

R.H. Drexel is back with a fascinating tale of kites twisting and twirling across the sky high in the mountains above Jenner-by-the-Sea, a small cabin, Best Buck of the Bay Gay Rodeo, a dog called Lucky... and a wine crafted into reality from a dream and conviction which has its creator Seth Cripe putting it all on the line.

The Storyteller

JCB Collection New Releases

Perhaps best known for his flamboyant fashion sense and decadent cabaret/burlesque events, behind the scenes, Jean-Charles Boisset has become a tour-de-force to contend with in the wine world. Challenged by his French friends and family to show how great California is and make wine from there, he did just that.

How Far I’ll Go

Cru de Clos de Sequoya Pinot Noir

The distances winemakers will journey never ceases to amaze, following their calling to plant their special place on the planet. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, you find yourself standing in the most unlikely of locations for a vineyard and wonder, “Why here?” Until you taste the wine. Welcome to Seth Cripe’s Clos de Sequoya Vineyard.

Bought & Blind

50 Recommended Grower Champagnes for Under $100

The recent explosion in Champagne prices is painful. Former staple favorites such as Salon, Krug, Selosse, and Egly-Ouriet, which I have followed for many years, are now hard to justify. Therefore, the inspiration for writing this article was partly at least selfish interest. I want to find some high-quality, interesting Champagnes for the holiday season without remortgaging the farm.

The Road Less Traveled

Tensley Vineyards

California-born and bred, Joe Tensley grew up in Bakersfield and moved to Los Olivos, just north of Santa Barbara, when he was 18. After spending a few years learning the craft at other wineries in California Central Coast, he started his own label in 1998, producing just 100 cases. His annual production is now around 5000 cases, but his goal hasn’t changed. It’s a road not many winemakers choose: to make unique, high-quality wines at affordable prices.

Moving With the Times

Château Kirwan 1995-2020

Château Kirwan is developing a more focused style with greater purity and delineation than in the past. Increasingly, it’s delivering impactful fruit and effortless grace thanks to a lively backbone of freshness that defines the palate even in warmer vintages. Now is an excellent time to consider squirreling a few of these recent Kirwan vintages away in the cellar.

Smooth Operator

Modus Operandi Cellars’ New Releases

Jason Moore's wines are for consumers in search of creatively crafted, truly artisanal Napa and Sonoma wines at sensible prices for the high level of quality.

New Kid in Town

Walson Holland 

Land of the Rhône Rangers, the viticultural patchwork quilt of prime terroir between Paso Robles and Ojai has become a hotbed of innovation and creative freedom. One of the most promising newcomers to this area is Walson Holland. A collaboration between investor/vineyard owner Jonas Svenson and young winemaker Benny Holland

Not New World

Nicolás Catena Zapata & Adrianna Vineyard Malbec 1999-2015

Dream Catcher

Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso 2001-2020

Le Macchiole is a dream realized. A success story of Bolgheri, they now produce some of the most sought-after wines in the region. Capable of producing world-class wines, it has become Bolgheri’s jewel in the crown.

My Definition is This

Château Phélan Ségur 1990-2020

Phelan Ségur resigned from the Cru Bourgeois classification in 2010. With vines spread across the Saint-Estèphe appellation and intermingled amongst classified growth titans Montrose and Calon Ségur, you can understand why. Phélan Ségur is now set to give its fancy classified neighbors runs for their money.

Under the Tuscan Sun

Tuscany’s Top 25 New Releases

Following Susan Hulme MW’s recent trip to Tuscany, we kick off our coverage of this region with her Top 25 best new releases. Mainly 2019s with a few older vintages, her enthusiasm for these wines is a testament to the epic quality coming out of Italy’s heartland in recent years. Featuring some of the famous names and Tuscan superstars, there are also one or two surprises. Italian wine lovers are not going to want to miss this.

Live Well, Drink Well

Spotlight on Aperture and Devil Proof

If you haven’t heard of Jesse Katz yet, you soon will. He’s one of northern California’s most talented young winemakers with a natural eye for unique sites. His Devil Proof Farrow Ranch Vineyard Malbec is unique. No other Malbec on the planet is quite as pure, well-defined, multi-layered, and evocative as this. Simply put, it’s an artist’s Malbec.

Off the Beaten Trail

Château Marsau

In the Francs-Côtes-de-Bordeaux appellation, this quiet, remote property is near, well...not a lot. But don’t let the far-flung location fool you; many worthy changes and renewed drive are happening at small-but-beautiful Château Marsau, with a subsequent uptick in quality in recent vintages. (And at a very affordable price!). These wines are skillfully crafted and downright delicious, going that extra length towards expressing this special place’s signature.

The Old Man and the Sea

Château Larcis Ducasse 1959-2020

Owned by the same family since 1893, in 1990, Jacques-Olivier Gratiot took over. In 2002, he hired Nicolas Thienpont to manage the estate, working with David Suire as the technical director. Stephane Derenoncourt and his colleague Julien Lavenu were also brought in as consultant enologists. At last, a team to bring the terroir of Château Larcis Ducasse to the limits of what it could do.

The Halo

A Complete Vertical of Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon 1982-2020

Nestled within a residential neighborhood of St. Helena, very close to Beckstoffer’s Dr. Crane vineyard and Abreu’s Madrona Ranch, Spottswoode’s vineyard takes advantage of the optimal ripeness that can be achieved in this Napa Valley hot spot. A signature invariably shines through in the wines—even in the warmest vintages—brightness.

The Rabbit With a Gun

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 1986-2018

The style of Grand-Puy-Lacoste can be considered classic Pauillac, delivering that signature taut structure and muscular fruit, yet with bags of freshness and finesse. The focus here is not on making powerful, behemoth wines but on those with energy and vivacity. This estate is valued for its remarkable restraint and quiet intensity. Never tiring on the palate, the wines are of the type that keeps you reaching for another sip.

The Citrus Circus

Aubert's New Releases

Most of the production at Aubert is the Chardonnays, a unique pursuit for a California winery, let alone Cabernet-synonymous Napa. One of a handful of the USA’s greatest Chardonnay producers and right up there with the top Chardonnay estates in the world, Aubert knocks it out of the park again with their latest line-up of 2020 and 2021 releases.

The Flavor Chef

Paul Lato's New Releases

Paul Lato left Poland with hopes of becoming a chef. The story of Lato’s journey is as fascinating and uplifting as his wide range of new-release Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and Rhône varieties wines. Ultimately, Paul Lato’s Chardonnays are among the best in California.

Evolution Revolution

Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon 1986-2020

Dalla Valle is one of Napa Valley’s most iconic wineries. Lisa Perrotti-Brown was invited by Naoko Dalla Valle and her daughter Maya in June for a tasting that included every vintage made so far of their Cabernet Sauvignon label. It is worth impressing upon readers that the consistency of quality over the last decade is a testament to decades of Naoko and Maya Dalla Valle’s commitment to this special place.

Trick or Treat

2012 Bordeaux 10-Years-On

2012 Bordeaux is what Lisa Perrotti-Brown calls a trick-or-treat vintage. It’s a heterogeneous vintage resulting in a broad range of quality levels. Many of the top wines are mature now and won’t last much more than another 10 to 15 years. Some less successful wines are already starting to fade. But there is a clutch of spectacular successes that are still remarkably youthful and should have another 20 to 30 years in them!

The Mourvèdre Whisperer

Andremily’s New Releases
Mourvèdre is a staple component in many Rhône blends, but other than the last initial on a “GSM label,” it is seldom named. It's just not one of those grapes that gets consumers stampeding for a bottle. Until now.

Our critic Lisa Perrotti-Brown can't recommend these wines highly enough, especially Binn’s spectacular take on Mourvèdre.

Beyond Bordeaux

New Place de Bordeaux Releases

In recent years, the Place de Bordeaux—Bordeaux’s historical merchant network of buying local wines and selling them throughout the world—has been evolving. In a nutshell, it’s gone global. Major players such as Joanne, Duclot, and CVBG have been traveling internationally, looking to secure allocations of big names that could be of interest to collectors throughout the fine wine world. Welcome to the 21st Century Place de Bordeaux.

Rain Dogs

Sine Qua Non, Next of Kyn and The Third Twin New Releases

The end of the seven-hour drive to taste with Elaine and Manfred Krankl has become my annual reset. Even in 2020, when no one was going anywhere, I visited. Because when we sit, discussing all the things that are not wine, intangible yet clearly relevant, the vintages pouring down all around us, the tallying of points in my head stops. There are more critical things to consider.

Heads Held High

Fingers Crossed New Releases

In a challenging vintage like 2020, Fingers Crossed have produced their best wines yet. As the son of Sine Qua Non’s Manfred Krankl, art and winemaking have been a part of Nik Krankl’s upbringing and, you could say, are in his blood. Fingers Crossed’s wines nod to SQN with their captivating, original artwork labels with each vintage.

Let's be Franc

Château Jean Faure Vertical

Those who know their Bordeaux cult wines know that several of the cultiest labels are not Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon dominant but rather mainly composed of Cabernet Franc. Château Jean Faure is property in an upwards swing and joins in the persuit of this profound variatel. For wine lovers seeking great Cabernet Franc, this Château comes highly recommended.

The Inventor

Morlet Family Vineyards New Releases

During a July visit, Lisa Perrotti-Brown tasted a complete vertical of Morlet Family Vineyards’ Coeur de Vallée and the entire line-up of 2019s and 2020s. It proved a stellar showing. In 2020, no Bordeaux varieties reds or Syrah were made due to the wildfires that year and potential smoke taint issues.

Value Play

2019 Cru Bourgeois

In the Médoc, if you were passed over by the great anointing sword of the 1855 Classification, it can be challenging to get noticed, no matter how good you are in terms of quality or value. This was an impressively consistent showing, with nearly a hundred Cru Bourgeois wines from the 2019 vintage, not just because this is such a great vintage, but because the Cru Bourgeois designation is starting to mean something.

To Rocks & Mountains

Saxum Vineyards

One of the modern-day legends of California’s Rhône Rangers, Saxum’s founder, Justin Smith, has revolutionized the quality and expression of Paso Robles wines. The 2018 James Berry Vineyard Bone Rock (released earlier this year) is through-the-roof good. The brightness and intensity of this wine genuinely speak of perfect conditions to produce a perfect wine! And then came another jaw dropper...

The Calling

The story of L'If

In 2010, Jacques Thienpont, owner of the illustrious Pomerol property Le Pin, did something unexpected. He bought a small, unlikely vineyard of around five hectares located on the backroads of Saint-Émilion. The estate was formerly known as Château Haut-Plantey; not that many had ever heard of it. Situated next to a run-down barn, the vines were in a poor state. But Jacques saw more than future potential here. He heard a calling from his past.

Positive Mountain Altitude

Pym-Rae 2018

The 2018 Pym-Rae takes full advantage of the more extended, cooler growing season and slow evolution of flavor ripeness the year brought. It's a vintage which kicks the layers up a notch. It's impressive how each year of this new estate brings out the singular nature of its remote site, yet the wine’s earthy restraint speaks clearly of Mount Veeder.

Imagine If

Vine Hill Ranch 2009-2019

Vine Hill Ranch was a vineyard which in the 90s had gained an enviable reputation as a supplier to some of the greatest, most expensive labels in Napa Valley. Then one day, Bruce Philips' father handed his son the seed of a thought. “Imagine what we could do with this fruit,” his father said, “Imagine if.” Today, here is one of the most spectacular expressions of Napa Cabernet.

Lower the Sails Again

Château Beychevelle 1995-2021

Tasting the evolution of Beychevelle over 27 vintages was an uplifting experience. It is a joy to see this great estate finding its sea legs among changes in management and fresh investment. It has gained an impressive consistency over the last decade, at last making the most of its exemplary terroir.

Where the Heart Is

Château Fontenil 2001-2020

The unlikely vineyard in Fronsac was a massive all-or-nothing undertaking for Dany and Michel Rolland. Realizing its' potential has been their passion over the last 36 years. Fontenil has never been made to formula; it is led by the heart, constantly striving for better.

The Penfolds Collection 2022

Peter Gago held a reveal party in Bordeaux last month, featuring a lineup fronted by a very impressive, decadently showy, epically long-lived Grange that die-hard collectors will not want to miss. Penfolds’ unveiling of “The Collection,” is one of Australia’s most anticipated annual wine events. And, true to form, it wouldn’t be a Penfolds Australia portfolio tasting without something new to show for the first time.

Château Quintus 2011-2020
In June this year, Jean-Philippe Delmas set up a tasting for us encompassing all the vintages of Quintus and Dragon de Quintus made thus far. It's clear to see that Quintus is reaching a stage where it is a sum greater than its parts. It is beginning to take flight with a whole new wine personality under it's wings. The most recent vintages are perfumed, hedonic powerhouses.

Sleeping Beauties

Bordeaux 2005 Retrospective
We’ve assembled a comprehensive view of what is undoubtedly one of the greatest vintages of the 21st Century (so far). Many top names turned out to be as impressive as suspected and a few others surpassed expectations. In particular, Clos Fourtet, Rauzan-Segla, Smith Haut Lafitte, and La Gaffeliere shimmered as real jaw-droppers with a long life ahead!

Spin the Bottle

Barolo and Barbaresco, 2017, 2018, & 2019
Recent vintages of Barolo and Barbaresco represent a golden era for the Piedmont region and to the consumer these vintages create a happy buying situation. A sea change has been going on here of late. Especially, but not only, among young producers. The results are exciting and extremely positive. It is nothing less than a quiet revolution in style.

Additional notes added for Armando Piazzo, Gabutti Boasso, Broccardo, Luigi Giordano, Brovio, Renato Ratti, Cristian Boffa, Grasso Tiziano, La Fusina, Raineri, Luigi Vico, Crissante Alessandria, Reva, E. Molino, Fontanafredda, Pasquale Pelissero, Ruggeri Corsini, Colla, Arnaldo Rivera, Amalia, Fogliati, Culasso Piercarlo, Gheddo, and Domenico Clerico.

Darioush, Davies, Etude, Far Niente, Farella, Fisher Vineyards, Foley Johnson, Gallica and World's End

Cloudburst’s New Releases
In 2013, I was covering the wines of Australia for The Wine Advocate. During one of my largescale tastings, I stumbled across a new Margaret River Chardonnay that was so singular, so good, that I vowed to pay a visit to the vineyard on my next trip to the area. There can be no denying that these wines are not only of outstanding quality but, more importantly, they are unique.

Château La Pointe 2004-2020
La Pointe is a solid expression of Pomerol that remains well-priced. On an upwards swing, it’s worth taking advantage of the latest releases. Recent improvements to the vineyard management can be seen in the ripeness of tannins and fruit intensity, offering downright delicious drinking and greater ageing potential.

Rudd Estate New Releases

I found Rudd Estate’s 2019 line-up bright, energetic, and nuanced. Simply delicious and with considerable aging potential, the Leslie’s Blend from the Mt. Veeder vineyard is a stand-out natural beauty. What I particularly love about this wine is its singularity, possessing a lot of muscle while revealing the earthier, more restrained side of Napa.

Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2011-2018

In an “old” world region like Bordeaux, it is easy to be dismissive of change. Today the rate of change has accelerated. Cellars are demolished and rebuilt, the winemaker merry-go-round, vineyards sold and tacked onto other châteaux names, and here comes another foreign investor. This constant flux is par for the course in Bordeaux and seldom impacts more than those directly involved. What is interesting, however, is when the wine changes. Dramatic style and quality shake-ups impact us all.

The Pauillac Paradox

Château Pontet-Canet 2010-2020

The signatures that shine through each of these years are brightness, energy, and the purity of fruit, creating a singular expression of Pauillac that hovers above the crowd. And yet there remains a firmly structured classicism about the 2019 vintage, instilling a sense of regionality and a gravitas. A Pauillac paradox, today’s Pontet-Canet is both timeless and ahead of its time.

Bordeaux 2021 in barrel

Just over one year after that ominous first frost plague descended upon the Bordeaux 2021s, the 10th Plague arrived, far more terrifying and damning than all those that came before. The scores... the scores...

Sauternes 2021 En Primeur

No table wine can touch these unctuous beauties in terms of value for money.

Château Brane-Cantenac 2000-2018

Positive changes are happening at Château Brane-Cantenac. There’s no jarring difference in style here, such as a trend correction veering abruptly towards a new ripeness/harvest philosophy or a flashy winemaking makeover. The stylistic changes in recent vintages are cleverly subtle.

The Enticingly Flamboyant Sibling

Léoville Poyferré 2000-2017

Compared to the other two more serious, strait-laced Léovilles, Poyferré is the out-of-the-gate gorgeous, enticingly flamboyant sibling. If this is your style, these are vintages of Léoville Poyferré at its finest that you will not want to miss!

Style Council

Harlan Estate and Bond New Releases

About a year ago, the reins were handed over to Bill’s son, Will Harlan, who is now managing director over all the Harlan estates, but there are no dramatic changes in style here, which is not to say there are no changes.

The Trimurti

Napa Vintages 18, 19 & 20
2018, 2019, and 2020 are three very different Northern California growing seasons, producing wines of distinctive stylistic signatures, revealing three deliciously different faces of Napa Valley. Intensity and depth. Rock solid structures. Fruit to fore. Stellar and age worthy. Take your pick.

Changing of the Guard

Peter Michael Winery 2019 & 2020 releases

I recently had the opportunity to taste the 2019 and 2020 Peter Michael Winery new releases with winemaker Robert Fiore, who continues to work with consultant Luc Morlet. 2019 is undoubtedly a WOW vintage.

In the Nick of Time

Sauternes 2019 in bottle
2019 was an outstanding year for Bordeaux red wines. Still, the necessary weather conditions for the forging of the region’s high-quality reds are counterproductive to great Sauternes and Barsac production. Much of the 2019 growing season was warm to hot and dry. By the end of September, the prospects for significant noble rot—the beneficial face of Botrytis necessary for producing truly great sweet whites—were looking quite bleak. It had thus far been too warm and dry when cooler, humid/wet conditions are required to kickstart the measured infection of the fungus.

Chateau Figeac, 1979-2019
Not to be different, but Thierry Manoncourt was different. Unashamedly bucking trends, questioning the status quo, unafraid to speak his peace - different. With an eloquent, gentlemanly demeanor that belied his stubbornness, Manoncourt certainly wasn’t short on opinions nor passion for his vineyard.