11th Jul 2024
France, Bordeaux, Sauternes
11th Jul 2024
For the last couple of decades, the usual way of doing business has not panned out for Sauternes producers as consumers continue to turn away from sweet wine styles and the sales of Bordeaux’s liquid gold shrivel. Undaunted, in 2014, Sylvio Denz purchased Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, a Premier Grand Cru Classé estate. Where others saw doom and gloom, Silvio saw opportunity. He increased the volumes of Lafaurie-Peyraguey’s dry white wine while seeking to make less of the grand vin Sauternes, focusing on quality rather than volume for its flagship. He also diversified the business, adding hospitality to wine production, proving that there is still gold in the region.
Originally from Basel, Silvio Denz studied finance in the UK and spent time working in the USA before returning home to take over the management of his family’s small perfume and cosmetics business. He turned a company of just ten employees into the largest perfumery chain in Switzerland, with around 800 employees. In 2000, he sold his family’s company, subsequently focusing his efforts on the luxury perfume sector. When a struggling yet reputable Alsatian crystal factory—Lalique—came up for sale in 2008, Denz recognized a synergy and bought the company. Then, he turned his keen eye for complementary opportunities toward Bordeaux wine production.
“It was always my dream to have my own vineyard in Bordeaux, preferably in Saint-Émilion,” said Silvio. “The dream became a reality in 2005 with the purchase of the 400-year-old property Château Faugères, as well as the Péby Faugères and Cap de Faugères vineyards.”
When Silvio purchased Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey a few years later, he quickly set about establishing the hospitality side, including an impressive luxury hotel and restaurant in the heart of Sauternes, decorated from ceiling to floor with dazzling Lalique crystal fittings—chandeliers, cabinets, crystal stemware, and even the bathroom faucet handles. The restaurant, also named “Lalique,” was awarded two Michelin stars, creating a much-needed destination spot to attract tourism to this all-but-forgotten Bordeaux commune. And the wine bottles for Denz’s wines, including Lafaurie-Peyraguey, have been redesigned into some of the most decadent packaging in the wine world. Vignobles Silvio Denz’s perfume-caliber Art Deco wine bottles are also made by (you guessed it) Lalique.
“Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey comprises 34 hectares of vineyards in total,” Silvio said. “We have been focusing on 18 hectares that form the centerpiece of the property, classified in 1855. Three more hectares are given over to the production of dry white wine. The other vineyards of inferior quality are all leased out. Recent harvests have vindicated our decision: even in difficult years, it has been possible to further improve the quality and yield of our sweet wines. Dry white wine was already being produced at Lafaurie-Peyraguey sixty years ago. I successfully revived this tradition alongside my friend Denis Dubourdieu, who sadly passed away far too young.”
I recently tasted vintages of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey from before and after Silvio’s purchase with estate manager Vincent Cruege and consultant Valerie Lavigne, who worked closely with Denis Dubourdieu and took over his role at the estate after his passing.
“30 hectares were going into the grand vin before Silvio bought the estate,” said Vincent. “We currently use only 16 hectares of the best parcels while we replant. We are bringing the vineyard back to where it was at the 1855 classification. We have three different kinds of soils in three major vineyard sections: clay, gravel, and iron-rich red soils.”
“We are looking for freshness and purity,” added Valerie. “From 2015, we decreased the amount of time in oak. It was 18 months before, but it’s now 14 months with a few months in tank. And there is less new oak being used.”
Recent vintages of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey reveal more luster and youthful vibrancy than the wines of the early 21st century, with even greater intensity and stamina. What’s more, Silvio’s efforts demonstrate that there is still gold to be discovered in Sauternes for those who know where to pan.
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Article & Reviews by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
Photography by Johan Berglund
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