I tasted with and interviewed Axel several times over those years and always appreciated the unique sensibilities of a German-born winemaker who studied and worked in France before becoming one of the most important winemakers in Italy. (I also enjoyed discussing music with him. The first time we met, I immediately noticed the telltale calloused fingertips of a classical guitarist on his right hand.)

Beginning in 2023, one might have thought there was good reason to worry over the number of changes that happened in quick succession.

Olga Fusari, who had become head enologist at Ornellaia in 2016, left for a position with Ruffino. CEO Giovanni Gedes retired, and Axel left for Chateau Lascombes in Margaux.

Marco Balsimelli, an Italian-born winemaker who spent the last 17 years in Bordeaux, predominantly with enologist Eric Boissenot, was appointed Production Director for Ornellaia and Masseto. Denise Cosentino, an Italian who most recently worked for Domaines Barons de Rothschild in China at Domaine Long Dai, joined as Ornellaia’s winemaker. Of the illustrious team, only Gaia Cinnirella remained as Masseto's winemaker.

I first met Marco in New York City in early 2024 on his first trip to the US as the newly minted Production Director for Ornellaia and Masseto. My first impression of him was that he was thoughtful, humble, and a bit….nervous. Meeting with him again in the fall of the same year, and after a full harvest in his new home under his belt, he had a confident and gregarious nature, quite comfortable in discussing not only his time at Ornellaia and Masseto but all of the vintages we tasted and showed a genuine professional chemistry with both Denise Cosentino and Gaia Cinnirella.

He first visited Ornellaia with the University of Florence in 2002, tasting the 1999 vintage. He recalled his impression of the wine during that visit with reverence—the concentration and grace, the savoriness, and, in particular, the distinctive shape of the tannins.

Now, at the helm, it is very important to be humble and respectful of the history and the continuity of style. When asked what he has changed at Ornellaia, the only real change is the timing of blending.

He and Denise assembled the initial blend in the Spring, earlier than the previous practice of waiting until 12 months after the harvest.

He and Denise did not know each other before January of 2024, and did not have the luxury of a handover from the previous team, but they found they were instantly on the same page, particularly in terms of extraction. They have a natural rapport when speaking about the wines, and they have similar winemaking philosophies, given his time in Bordeaux and her experience working for Domaines Barons de Rothschild.

While much at Ornellaia will remain the same, several notable experimental projects are occurring at Masseto. They are trying out one glass wine globe, an inert spherical vessel, for maturation, trialing out some new racking methods, and assembling the initial blend earlier.

Gaia Cinnirella and Marco have an easy-going rapport. Still, with both, there is a serious and carefully chosen selection of words and an evident reverence for the work they do. Gaia spoke of the importance of adding even just a small amount of press wine early in the blending process to act as a “shoulder” to the wine. This addition of press wine also allows them to be more gentle in the vinification process, focusing on the purity of the fruit, as one can also add a bit of structure through the addition of press wine but cannot reverse the extraction if too aggressive early on.

The soil has a good amount of salinity here - a difficult growing environment for Merlot - but this struggle increases concentration, and even in a warm vintage such as 2021, the cool nights and persistent breeze retain freshness in the wines.

I asked Marco what bottle he opened when he heard the news of his appointment as Production Director (it was Krug) and how he felt in that moment (excited, humbled, nervous). On his first day, Lamberto Frescobaldi, President of Frescobaldi Wines, which owns both Ornellaia and Masseto, introduced Marco to a room of 150 employees and handed him a microphone without any warning. Marco had not prepared remarks but felt a sense of familiarity, having returned to make in his home country.

I also asked him what he hopes for as his legacy. He wants them to age “in a perfect way,” to showcase his respect for the terroir, and to truly find the DNA of the vineyards to express their pure character in the glass.

With all admiration and respect for the outgoing team, tasting with the new guard feels like a breath of fresh and exciting new air. I cannot wait to see what the next ten years and beyond hold for this team and the resulting wines from these storied estates. If my impressions are correct, it will be a glorious tenure and a delight for collectors.